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Bar, Montenegro: Stari Bar, the Old Olive Tree and the Port Town

Bar, Montenegro: Stari Bar, the Old Olive Tree and the Port Town

The quick version

Plan a visit to Bar, Montenegro: the ruins and fortress at Stari Bar, King Nikola's Palace, the Old Olive Tree and how to arrive by train, ferry or car.

10 min readBy Bastion & Bay Editorial
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Bar is two places in one: the working port town on the water and Stari Bar, the abandoned hill town about an hour's walk above it. Give the fortress an afternoon and the port town half a day, and you have seen the city properly. This guide covers the fortress hours and ticket, King Nikola's Palace, the Old Olive Tree at Mirovica, Bar and how to arrive by train, ferry or car.

Bar sits on Montenegro's southern Adriatic coast, roughly an hour from Budva and two hours from Kotor. It is also the country's main ferry link with Italy, which makes it a practical first or last stop on a coastal route.

What Bar is and where it sits on the southern coast

Bar is a coastal city in southern Montenegro, tucked between the Adriatic and the mountains near Lake Skadar. It is a proper Montenegrin town rather than a resort: supermarkets, cafés and locals going about their day, with the tourist pressure concentrated elsewhere. That makes it a calm base for the southern coast and for the lake.

The modern town spreads along the water, while the historic core sits uphill at Stari Bar. The old town is about an hour's walk up a hill from the port, which is why many visitors treat the two as separate outings. Plan your day around which of the two you are actually visiting.

Stone ruins in the old town of Bar.
Stone ruins in the old town of Bar. Photo: Monika Kostera (urbanlegend), CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr · Photo source · License

Bar town or Stari Bar: which part you are actually visiting

The port town is where you arrive, eat and sleep; Stari Bar is where the ruins are. The modern town has the waterfront promenade, King Nikola's Palace and the Church of Saint John, while the hill town has the fortress and the old streets. If you have one day, do Stari Bar in the morning and the port town in the afternoon.

Stari Bar has a small cluster of shops and restaurants around the fortifications, but these are not the historic town itself. Continue through them and up to the ruins for the real reason to make the climb. The path runs alongside the old fortress walls, so you will see the entrance before you reach it.

Old walls of Bar's old town above the mountains.
Old walls of Bar's old town above the mountains. Photo: HistoriasDelEste, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr · Photo source · License

Stari Bar: the fortress, the ruined streets and the views down to the port

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Stari Bar Fortress is the centrepiece: large stone walls, round corner turrets and cobbled paths running under ancient arches. Inside, the town is in ruins, with foundations, empty windows and plants growing between the bricks. The site is quiet once you pass the entrance, which makes it easy to spend an hour or more wandering.

The old town was abandoned after the 1979 earthquake destroyed its repaired aqueduct, and it has never been re-inhabited. That history explains why the streets are skeletal rather than restored, and why the site feels more like an archaeological park than a living town. From the walls you can look down the hill to modern Bar and out to the water.

The old town lies in the mountains above Bar and below the slopes that rise to Mount Rumija, and the views from up here take in the mountains behind and the coast below. Wear shoes you can walk in on cobbles, and carry water in summer because the site is exposed.

Stari Bar opening hours and the adult and child ticket price

Stari Bar Fortress opens from 08:00 to 20:00 in summer and from 08:00 to 17:00 in winter. The entrance fee is €5 for adults and €1 for children. These are the published figures; confirm them at the gate before you rely on them for a late-afternoon visit, since seasonal changes are common at Montenegrin sites.

King Nikola's Palace and its museum collection

King Nikola's Palace, also known as the Bar City Palace, is the port town's main sight, with elegant halls and an on-site museum of traditional objects. It sits in the centre of Bar, in front of the wide pebbly beach at Topolica and its palm-lined promenade. Allow an hour for the palace and a stroll along the waterfront.

The palace is a useful counterweight to Stari Bar: one is restored and curated, the other is open ruins. Pairing them gives you both the official history and the atmospheric one. Check the palace's opening hours locally before you go.

The Church of Saint John

The Church of Saint John is another port-town sight, described as an architectural gem with a long history. It is a short stop rather than a destination in itself, so fold it into a walk between the palace and the waterfront. Dress respectfully if a service is under way, and check locally for opening times.

The Old Olive Tree at Mirovica, 5 km from the city

The Old Olive Tree, also called Stara Maslina, stands about 5 km outside the city at Mirovica. It has stood in the same place for more than 2,000 years, according to the sources, and is a short detour by car or taxi from the centre. Combine it with Stari Bar if you are driving, since both sit inland from the port.

Getting to Bar by train from Podgorica and the north

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Bar is connected by train from Podgorica and from the north of Montenegro and Serbia. The journey from Podgorica takes roughly 1 to 1.5 hours. The station sits in the modern town, which makes the train a straightforward way to arrive without a car.

Check the current timetable before you travel. The route is scenic in its mountain sections, so a daytime departure is worth aiming for if you have the choice.

Arriving by ferry from Bari and Ancona

Bar has direct ferry connections to Bari and Ancona in Italy. That makes it a practical arrival point if you are coming from the Adriatic's Italian side, and a sensible last stop before heading back. The port is a working one, so most of the activity stays near the docks.

Ferry timetables, crossing times and fares vary by season and operator, so check them directly with the company before booking. Do not assume a daily sailing in either direction.

Driving to Bar on the Adriatic Highway and from Budva or Kotor

By road, Bar is about 60 to 70 minutes from Budva on the E80 and around two hours from Kotor. The Adriatic Highway (E65) runs along the coast, but the coastal roads can be winding and narrow in places. A car makes it easier to reach Stari Bar, the Old Olive Tree and the quieter stretches of coast around Bar.

If you are driving from Kotor or Budva, allow extra time in summer for traffic and for the climb up to Stari Bar. Arrive earlier in the day if you want time at the fortress before the afternoon.

How walkable Bar town is and what the waterfront gives you

Bar town is walkable along the waterfront, with the palace, the promenade and the beach at Topolica close together. The climb to Stari Bar is the exception: it is about an hour on foot uphill, so most visitors drive or take a taxi. If you are on foot, treat the two parts as separate trips.

The waterfront gives you the palm-lined promenade and the pebbly beach, which is more local than luxurious. It is a pleasant place for an evening walk rather than a beach destination in its own right.

How long to give Bar: the old town in an afternoon, the town in half a day

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Give Stari Bar an afternoon: the fortress, the ruined streets and the views take two to three hours at an easy pace. Give the port town half a day for the palace, the church and the waterfront. Together that is a full day, which is enough for most visitors.

If you are passing through on the ferry or train, you can still see the palace and the promenade in a couple of hours. Stari Bar needs more time because of the climb and the size of the site.

Adding Lake Skadar as a day trip from Bar

Lake Skadar is within day-trip range of Bar and makes a natural pairing with the coast. The lake is the largest in the Balkans, and the sunset is the highlight for many visitors. Allow a full day if you want to combine a boat trip with the drive.

The lake is a national park, so expect an entrance fee and seasonal boat services. Check locally for current prices and sailing times before you set out.

Where Bar fits on a coastal route alongside Budva and Kotor

Bar is quieter and more workaday than Budva or Kotor, which suits travellers who want a slower base between the busier coastal spots. It is about an hour from Budva and two hours from Kotor, so it works as a stop on a coastal route rather than a day trip from either. The ferry to Italy also makes it a logical first or last stop.

If you are touring the coast, give Bar one night and a full day, then move on to Budva or inland to Lake Skadar. That pace lets you see Stari Bar properly without rushing the port town.

Which part of Bar to do first

Start with Stari Bar in the morning, when the light is good and the site is quiet, then spend the afternoon in the port town for the palace and the waterfront. If you are arriving by ferry or train, do the reverse and see the town first. Either way, check the fortress hours and ticket at the gate before you set out, since seasonal changes are common.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is Bar a tender port for cruise ships?

The sources used here describe Bar as a ferry port with direct connections to Bari and Ancona, but they do not say whether cruise ships tender or dock. Check with your cruise line for the specific berth and arrangements.

Is Bar in Montenegro worth visiting?

Bar suits travellers who want a quieter base with ruins, a palace and a working port rather than a resort. If you want nightlife and packed beaches, Budva is the better fit; if you want Venetian walls and a walled old town, Kotor is. Bar's appeal is the combination of Stari Bar and the everyday town.

How do you get to Bar without a car?

Bar is reachable by train from Podgorica and from the north of Montenegro and Serbia, with the station in the modern town. It also has direct ferry connections to Bari and Ancona in Italy. Within Bar, the port town is walkable along the waterfront, but Stari Bar is about an hour's walk uphill, so many visitors drive or take a taxi.

Sources

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