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One Day in Kotor: A Walking Route from Morning to Evening

One Day in Kotor: A Walking Route from Morning to Evening

The quick version

Plan one day in Kotor with an early fortress climb, the old town at midday and a boat to Our Lady of the Rocks. Timings, ticket prices and what to skip.

9 min readBy Bastion & Bay Editorial
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One day in Kotor fits three things comfortably: the climb to San Giovanni fortress first thing, the old town around midday and Perast with Our Lady of the Rocks in the afternoon. That order puts the hardest walking into the cool, quiet hours and leaves the evening free for a swim and dinner once the day visitors have gone.

Kotor's old town is compact and walled, alive with shops and restaurants, and slippery underfoot on its polished cobblestones even when it has not rained. Plan footwear around that, because the day is built on walking.

Start at 7am for the city walls and San Giovanni fortress

The walk up to San Giovanni fortress takes about an hour and parts of the path are slippery on the way down. Going up at 7am means you climb in shade, because the mountains hold off the sun until around 9am, and you share the path with far fewer people; the main route is busy after 10am.

Cruise ships typically arrive around 7:15am, and the town fills from about 8am. That is another reason to be on the stairs before the crowds come ashore, rather than wandering the squares first.

Kotor Old Town and the bay from the hillside above.
Kotor Old Town and the bay from the hillside above. Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

The city walls climb: entrances, the window and timings

There are two ways up and neither involves a cable car. The official route starts at the entrance in the old town, with entry points near the River Gate and behind Trg od Salate, and runs up more than 1,300 stairs.

The alternative begins outside the old town, has fewer stairs but takes longer, and after 30 to 40 minutes of climbing you pass through a large window to join the official path. That window may be closed at times, so look at it before committing your morning to this route. Allow two to four hours for the climb including breaks.

Kotor's old town wall with churches on the slope behind.
Kotor's old town wall with churches on the slope behind. Photo: Adam Jones, Ph.D., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

The Church of Our Lady of Remedy as a halfway stop

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Roughly halfway up sits the Church of Our Lady of Remedy, which you can visit on the way past. Vendors there sell bottles of water at a marked-up but reasonable price, useful if you set off without one.

Treat the church as a stop on the ascent rather than a separate detour, and pause again on the way down for photographs: from higher up it is a strong foreground against the bay.

San Giovanni fortress at the top

At the summit you reach San Giovanni fortress, also called St John's Fortress. It is not well maintained, but you can walk around freely, and the best bay views come after another 10 to 20 minutes of climbing beyond the main path.

If a full climb does not appeal, even halfway gives you good views of the old town and the water. Pack snacks and water and take enough breaks to make the descent unhurried.

Why the walls fee changes the timing of your day

The official wall hours are 8am to 8pm, and starting inside that window means paying an entrance fee of 8 euros. Begin before 8am and you pay nothing.

In practice the fee and the crowds pull in the same direction. A pre-8am start saves the charge and puts you above the bay in cooler air, which is why the fortress should be the first thing on the day's plan, not the last.

Walking the old town: gate entrances and what to wear

Back down, the old town is well protected by its city walls and filled with shops, restaurants and stone lanes. Walkways along the walls can be reached near the north entrance of the old town or to the left of the southern gate.

The polished cobblestones are notably slippery even when dry, so wear shoes with grip. It is humid in the middle of the day, so use this stretch for a slower look at churches, alleyways and shops before heading to the water.

Lunch in and around the old town

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Seafood along the bay is the default lunch, but BBQ Tjanga stands out for grilled meat, generous portions and a home-made hot sauce. Order the cevapi roll, add vegetables and sauce, and expect the owner to take pride in filling you up.

If you would rather compare options before you sit down, our guide to the best restaurants in Kotor covers where to eat around the old town. Eat early rather than late: the afternoon boat trip to Perast is the part of the day most vulnerable to delay.

Getting to Perast: taxi or bus

Perast is 15 to 20 minutes from Kotor by taxi, car or bus, and buses run roughly every hour. Check the timetable before you set out, because missing the last convenient bus turns a short afternoon into an expensive wait.

A common compromise is to take a taxi out so you arrive with the afternoon intact, then return by bus. The town is a seaside settlement of restaurants, moorings and a waterfront, so leave an hour for wandering before or after the island.

Our Lady of the Rocks: the crossing and the fare

Boats run from Perast to Our Lady of the Rocks, the church on an island built up over the water, and you spend 30 minutes to an hour on the island. There is not a great deal to do once ashore, but on a clear day the crossing justifies itself.

The boat costs 5 euros return, as reported in 2018; ask at the waterfront in Perast what you are paying before you board. Perast and the island are also offered as a boat tour from Kotor, which swaps flexibility for a fixed schedule.

Perast itself: the bell tower and the waterfront

Before the boat, climb the bell tower of the Church of Saint Nicholas for the best views and photographs of the two islands floating in the bay. Opening arrangements there are not tied to the boat timetable, so check at the church door when you arrive.

Have lunch in Perast or back in Kotor, but keep the waterfront for a slow half-hour. Rushing straight from bus to boat to bus is the most common way to waste Perast.

Evening back in Kotor: a swim and dinner

The bay is salty, calm and without waves, good for floating around after a day on your feet. Swimming is what most justifies staying in town for the evening rather than leaving with the coaches.

By evening the old town cools and loosens up, and dinner becomes a relaxed affair once the day visitors have gone. Stay for at least a night and you get the mornings and evenings to yourself, which is really the argument for sleeping inside or just outside the walls.

What to leave out of a single day

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Leave the hotel question for now: the Muo side of the bay, a short walk or five-minute drive around the water, is quieter and puts you further from the walls at dawn than a base inside the old town.

Leave inland Montenegro tours for a second day. The round trip to Lovćen, the old capital and Lake Skadar eats the whole day and would push the fortress and Perast off the plan.

One day in Kotor in summer and the shoulder months

Kotor is small, and May to September brings the heaviest crowding. In high summer, start the climb at 7am, do the old town before the heat peaks and keep the afternoon on the water where there is a breeze.

Outside those months the same route still works, with more margin: the stairs are less congested and you can linger at Our Lady of Remedy or in the fortress grounds without holding up a queue on the path.

Book the boat or keep the afternoon flexible?

Choose the fixed boat tour if you want the crossing to Our Lady of the Rocks arranged and are happy to trade flexibility. Keep the taxi-out, bus-back plan if you would rather set your own pace in Perast and can live with roughly hourly buses.

Either way, the fortress comes first, the old town second and the water third. Book the walls climb into a 7am start, pack grippy shoes and water, and the rest of the day has room to breathe.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to walk around Kotor Old Town?

The old town itself is compact and can be wandered in an hour or two, but the wall walks add time. Allow a slower midday stretch after the fortress climb and before the afternoon boat, and wear shoes with grip for the polished cobblestones.

Can you walk into Kotor from a cruise ship?

Ships typically arrive around 7:15am and the town fills from about 8am. Walking ashore puts you in the old town quickly, which makes a pre-8am start on the walls the sensible move if you want quiet stairs and no entrance fee.

What can you do in Kotor in a few hours from a cruise ship?

With a few hours, climb towards San Giovanni fortress early, walk the old town afterwards and skip Perast entirely; the 15 to 20 minute transfer each way plus the boat crossing does not fit comfortably. Check your ship's departure time before starting the stairs.

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